Instructions

1. Open Fox Pursuit Solo on the phone you hunt with. There is no account and no sign-in: everything stays on this phone. On an iPhone, follow the short iPhone steps on the Getting Started page first and open the app from its home-screen icon.
2. Tap Try it free → to run the trial, or paste the license key from your purchase receipt and tap Activate →. Activation needs a connection once; after that the app never asks again.
3. You're taken to the Home page. Tap Choose your map → and pick the region you hunt in from the coverage map — it brings you straight back. Then keep the default hunt name or type your own, then tap Start Hunt.

Start a hunt: on the Home page, keep the default hunt name (the date and time) or type your own (for example, FoxPursuit-June-A), then tap Start Hunt. A hunt has no time limit once Solo is activated; it stays open until you close it.

One hunt at a time. Starting a new hunt deletes the bearings of the one before it — the app asks first. Close a hunt from the map's top bar when you are done with it.

In the trial each hunt runs for 6 minutes from the moment the map opens, with no offline-map downloads. At the end the sensors stop and the map freezes with your bearings still on it, and it stays frozen however you reopen it. Activate your purchase and the same hunt carries on with its bearings and no limit; or go Home and start a new hunt, which starts empty with a fresh 6 minutes.

Coming back later: the Home page shows an Open the Hunt Map banner for the hunt that is open, with its start time and how many bearings it has. Your hunt is kept on this phone, so it is there after you close the app or lose signal. In the trial, once a hunt's time is up the banner offers Activate to carry on instead.

The bar across the top of the hunt screen shows, from left to right:

Item	Meaning
● dot	Connection status — green when online, red when offline.
name	The current hunt's name.
Trial timer	Trial only — the free minutes left in this hunt. It blinks red in the final stretch. Not shown once Solo is activated.
Close Hunt	Ends the hunt and deletes its bearings from this phone.
⌂ Home	Returns to the Home page (your hunt stays open).

On phones (held upright or sideways) the control panel starts hidden. Tap Show Controls to open it over the map and Hide Controls to close it. It opens with the everyday items; tap Show advanced ▾ for the rest: the GPS and compass details, typed and manual bearings, Map Options and the panel's Submit button. On a computer the panel stays beside the map with everything shown; Hide advanced ▴ tucks the advanced items away. Android tablets work like phones.

When you open a hunt, the app starts your GPS automatically and keeps your position updated as you move. You'll need to allow location access if your device asks. If location access is denied, or your device has no GPS, you'll enter your location and bearing manually instead.

On a phone the GPS status line shows at the bottom-left of the map. In the control panel it sits under the GPS Location heading, just above the Latitude and Longitude fields (on a phone, tap Show advanced ▾ to see them). It first shows Requesting GPS…; once the device locks onto your position it turns green and shows how tight the estimate is — for example, GPS Accuracy: ±50 ft. Your latitude and longitude fill in by themselves, and you can tap either field to type or adjust a value by hand. Accuracy improves outdoors with a clear view of the sky.

On tablets, Chrome or Edge give the most reliable GPS. Firefox on some tablets keeps asking for location permission and may not update — if that happens, switch to Chrome or Edge, or place your location manually.

The compass starts automatically on Android and desktop. On iPhone you must turn it on with a tap: the app opens the control panel for you, so tap the 🧭 Enable Compass button in the box at the top of the panel and choose Allow when iOS asks for Motion & Orientation access — iOS only grants this from that button tap. (If the panel is closed, tap Show Controls first. If you tapped Deny, clear this site's website data in Settings and reload, or just enter the bearing by hand.)

A small status line under the Compass Bearing heading (on a phone, also at the bottom-left of the map, as 🧭 123° NE) always shows where the current bearing is coming from — Compass: 123° NE when it's reading the magnetometer, GPS heading: 90° E · ±8° when it's using your direction of travel, or · hold in the moments right after you stop.

There are three ways to submit a location and bearing:

1. Stand and point. Hold the device flat and point the top — or a side, if you're in landscape — directly at the strongest signal. Keep still a moment so the reading settles, then press Submit → on the map (Submit Location + Bearing in the panel). While you're stationary the app uses the magnetic compass for the bearing.
2. Walk toward the signal. Where there's open space, hold the device flat and walk in a straight line directly toward the signal — at least 20 feet, and the farther the better (about 60–90 feet gives the cleanest result). As you walk, the bearing holds the compass (the way you're facing) until the GPS heading is solid, then snaps to the GPS heading (the way you walked) — watch the status line to see the switch. Stop, and within about 5 seconds press Submit → on the map (Submit Location + Bearing in the panel); the GPS heading is held that long, then reverts to the compass on its own. This is especially useful when something is disturbing your compass — most often in or near a vehicle.On iPhone: Apple's iOS reports your speed and position to web pages more slowly than Android does, so at a normal walking pace an iPhone won't gather a usable GPS heading before you've gone too far — this is a limitation of iOS, not the app. The feature still works on iPhone at a jog or faster, and it's genuinely useful at driving speeds, which is exactly when you'd want it (a vehicle throws off the compass). At walking speed on an iPhone, rely on the compass — after checking that it's accurate — or enter the bearing by hand.
3. Enter it yourself. You can always override the sensors. To place a reading on the map, tap Manual Entry on the map (phones), or Add Manual Location & Bearing to Map in the panel's advanced items. Your current location is marked with a red ✕ — tap the ✕ to use it, or tap anywhere else on the map to set a different spot — then tap the direction of the signal (tracking pauses and resumes on its own). To type exact values instead, tap ⏹ Stop Tracking so GPS won't overwrite your entries, open the advanced items (Show advanced), enter the latitude, longitude, and bearing, then submit — and tap Stop Tracking again to resume. Use manual entry when you already know the bearing, when the device has no compass or a clearly-wrong one and you can't walk far enough for a GPS bearing, or when you're plotting coordinates someone radioed to you.

0° = North · 90° = East · 180° = South · 270° = West.

If you'd rather not use live GPS and compass — for example, plotting a position someone radioed to you — you can place a reading directly on the map:

1. Tap Manual Entry on the map (phones), or Add Manual Location & Bearing to Map in the panel's advanced items. Live tracking pauses while you place the reading.
2. Your current location is marked with a red ✕. Tap the ✕ to use it as your location, or tap anywhere else on the map to drop it somewhere different.
3. Tap a second time in the direction of the signal to set the bearing. A preview marker and line appear.
4. Happy with it? Tap Submit → on the map (or Submit Location + Bearing → in the panel). Want to redo it? Tap Cancel Manual on the map (or ✕ Clear Manual Entry & Start Over in the panel). Tracking resumes on its own once you submit or clear.

The manual button returns as soon as your reading is submitted, so you can place several in a row.

1. With a location and a bearing set, tap Submit → on the map, or Submit Location + Bearing → in the panel's advanced items. If something is missing, a message on the map says what.
2. A marker drops at your location and a dashed line extends 10 miles along your bearing.
3. You can submit as many readings as you like from different spots — each adds another marker and line. Each one is saved on this phone as it is taken.
4. To remove one, find it in Your Submissions and tap delete.

Fox hunts often happen where cell coverage is poor. The app is built to keep working through dead zones — once the map for your area is on the phone.

• 🌐Choose your map. On the Home page tap Choose your map → and pick your region on the coverage map. It brings you straight back, and the map streams from the internet while you have signal. The one you chose is remembered. To switch later, tap change beside the map's name under Start Hunt, or Choose your map in the hunt map's control panel.
• 📥Download your area before you go. On the hunt map tap 🗺 Download / View Offline Maps, tap the map to pick a center, choose a radius and tap Download — or download the entire region where it is small enough. The area is stored on this phone and used whenever you have no signal. Downloads are available once Solo is activated.
• 🔴The connection dot turns red when you lose signal, and you'll see a brief "Offline" note. Areas you haven't downloaded may appear blank.
• 💾Nothing waits for a signal. Every reading is saved on this phone the moment you submit it. There is no queue and nothing to sync, so GPS, the compass and the map work the same with or without coverage.

• Where bearing lines from different locations cross is the likely position of the fox transmitter.
• 📐The more spread out your readings are, the sharper the intersection. Two lines from nearly the same spot barely narrow it down; lines taken from very different angles pin it tightly.
• 📍Bearings taken from nearly the same spot — within about 30 m (100 ft) of each other — don't form a probable area together: the phone's GPS wobble is too large a share of the distance between them. Take your next bearing from somewhere else and the area appears. Close to the fox, when all your bearings are within a few steps of each other, follow the bearing lines themselves.
• 🔁Take a fresh reading as you close in. Bearings get more reliable the nearer you are, and updated lines tighten the fix.
• ⚠Reflections off hills, buildings, and metal can bend a signal. If one line looks like an outlier, take another reading from a new spot rather than trusting it.
• 🎯The likely zone is marked for you by default in dark red (toggle it under Show probable area in Map Options, one of the advanced items). The fox is inside the red outline about 95% of the time, and the darker center (⊕) is its single most likely spot — tap the ⊕ for a quick summary. The area's size and shape come from how closely your bearings agree and from the expected accuracy of each one — a compass reading, a GPS heading, a typed bearing and a map-tapped bearing are each weighted differently.
• 🗺After you submit a bearing, the map automatically frames the probable area so you can see where to head next. Once you move on toward it, the map goes back to following you.
• ⚖The estimate weights each bearing by how it was captured — a GPS or typed-in bearing counts more tightly than a phone-compass one — and automatically sets aside a stray, reflected bearing. A small, tight ellipse means a confident fix; a large or dashed one means the bearings are nearly parallel or disagree, so gather more readings from different angles.

• ⏱An activated Solo hunt has no time limit. In the trial, the countdown is in the top bar.
• 🔒End a hunt with Close Hunt in the top bar.
• 📋The Your Submissions list shows every reading, newest first. Tap any entry to jump to that marker.
• 💬You can keep hunt notes — fox frequency, the organizer's contact number — in the hunt info panel.
• 🗑When you close a hunt, its markers and bearings are deleted from this phone. Your license and downloaded maps are kept.